![]() If you skip this step, adhesives will adhere very well to the debris between the plaster and lath while doing nothing to reinforce the plaster. The first instruction on every construction adhesive is some form of cleaning-surfaces must be free of dust, debris, oil, and dirt. Online Bonus: 6 Tips for Successful Plaster Patchingġ. Scrape the compound one last time with a putty knife (right), then wipe it down with a damp sponge, and wait for the surface to dry before priming and painting. Skim plaster over the drill holes and patch with three very thin layers of joint compound (you should still be able to see the plaster surface through it), scraping ridges and bumps between the layers. Using patching plaster, fill the deep holes down to the lath (left), then scrape the patching plaster with a putty knife, leveling it with the edges of the hole. The plaster is now stable, bridged subsurface with the lath, and will not re-crack. In 24 hours, after the adhesive has cured, remove the clamps. Use the plastic washers and screws to clamp the plaster into “soft contact” with the lath-pulling the plaster to just touch the lath, while leaving room for the adhesive to flex. Use the caulk gun to squeeze up to one handle-pull of adhesive into each hole (right). Spray the conditioner from the adhesive plaster repair kit into each hole and on any exposed lath (left) it will soak into plaster and lath, preparing them to bond to the adhesive. ![]() ![]() You now should have clear access to the space between the plaster and lath. (Most lath is 1¼” wide, spaced ¼” apart, and laid horizontally on walls.) If there are existing damage holes extending down to the lath, drill 3/16″ holes 1½” away from the edge of the hole, around the perimeter-one in every lath.
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